The placement of Speed Clamps for ROLAND 800 size 5

Remove the old clamps along with their retainer parts and the springs along with their retainer parts. At the rear side of the cylinder cavity there is a steel blade. Only this steel blade has to be removed because it is no longer required. The other steel blade that is at the front side of the cylinder cavity has to remain in its position because it is required. Clean the whole cylinder cavity well. Check the front clamp if the two register pins L07 & L08 are at their correct sides depending on what kind of punch machine for the plate you use because there is a difference of 1mm in the depth of cutting the plate between the various punch machines. If the register pins need to be changed, you have to loosen the screws (fig.2) that hold them. You remove them and you reinstall them on their opposite sides. If you use plates with no holes then you remove the two register pins. If in future you use plates with holes, you reinstall them. -Spread a fine film of grease on the faces of the retainer parts, on the face of the springs’ shaft L05 of the clamps and on the face of the steel blade L35 (the fast and parallel shifting mechanism for the rear clamp). Start by placing the four retainer parts L03 & L04 in their positions without the clamps and tighten their screws well. -Place the rear clamp in its position along with the three retainer parts L02-L01-L02 and the springs L06 compressed by the spring’s shaft L05 and secured with pins (fig.11). With the help of an aluminum wrench press the clamp to remove the pins (fig.11) that keep the springs pressed. Then place the back screws on the retainer parts without tightening them. After that turn the special toothed screw N67 (red) of the fast and parallel shifting mechanism to the right so as to leave space for the aluminum wrench in order to move the clamp backwards without the steel blade L35. Place a plastic wedge of 15mm thickness (included together with the screws for the placement of the speed clamps) between the steel blades L36 & L35 in the positions shown by fig.13. Now you can easily put the front screws on the three retainer parts and tighten them well. Re-move the clamp forward, turn the special toothed screw N67 (red) to the left and tighten well the back screws of the retainer parts. -Place the front clamp in its place in the cylinder along with its three retainer parts and its springs that are also compressed and secured with pins.

With the help of an aluminum wrench or by the operating screws L14, press the springs to remove the pins (fig.11) that keep them pressed. Continue by placing the back screws of the retainer parts without tightening them. With the operating screws move the clamp backwards to give enough space to put the front screws of the retainer parts and tighten them well. Re-move the clamp forward and tighten well the back screws of the retainer parts. The new speed clamps are now in place.

THE OPERATION OF SPEED CLAMPS

The upper clamp opens and closes with the pin wrench with handle N49. In order to close the clamp, you have to move it forward to the lid end (fig.8). For the opening of the clamp, the pin wrench has to be moved backwards until you feel that it has fallen into a flat gap. The upper and lower parts of the clamps are connected together with a series of Hexagon socket countersunk head screws N01-M10X35 that are for adjusting, when required, the pressure that holds the plate. The adjustment is always regulated with the plate tightened. For the above adjustment, you must use a long hexagon socket key 6mm by moving it only a little. You have to use some strength because the above screws are secured with a plastic ring N52/N57. There are compression springs N09 between the two parts of the clamp that help to open the upper part (of the clamp).

-In order to place the new plate you have to do the following:

FRONT CLAMP: The end adjusting screws L19 must not push the clamp right or left so that the self-centering mechanism L09/L10/L11 can keep the clamp automatically in the center. If during the set-up you use the end adjusting screws to move the clamp right or left, keep these screws tightened till the end of the particular work. By the two operating side screws L14 place the clamp at position “O”. At this position the horizontal line (fig.7) of the ring scale L15 is aligned with the face of the clamp and the bold vertical line is on the top. If later the indicator needs correction, there are two small screws (fig.4) that will put it in the right place. You can also place the clamp at position “O” by using the two adjusting screws L16. These screws are not for the stretching of the plate, if you use them, they always remain in the same position where you have adjusted them. Unscrewing the 4 operating screws L14, the clamp by these two screws, remains in the standard position “O”. You can correct their position with their ring scales L17.

If during the set up you need to move the clamp forward, unscrew the adjusting screws L16 and after the printing process place them back to their correct position with the help of the ring scales’ lines (fig.6). If they are not useful, unscrew them a few mm and they are as they do not really exist there. (These operating screws are secured with a plastic to turn hard). For the above adjustment, you can also use the two adjustable indicator sets N39 by using the screw (fig.12) so as the middle thick line to be aligned with the face of the clamp. Align the faces of the left L20A and right L20D split upper bodies with the end face (fig.10) of the lower solid clamp L20 by using the double adjusting screws L18.

REAR CLAMP: At first, use the special toothed screw N67 (red), which you turn left, to move the clamp toward the side of the cylinder. Place the 4 operating rear clamp screws L12 in position “O”. At this position, the horizontal line (fig.5) of the ring scale L13 is aligned with the face of the clamp. If the ring scale needs correction, there are two small screws (as shown in fig.4) that will put it in the right place. Bring the clamp in the center by using the end adjusting screws L19. There is a line on each end screw (fig.9) to show that the clamp is in the center of the cylinder. Align the faces of the left L30A and right L30D split upper bodies with the end face (fig.10) of the lower solid clamp L30 by using the double adjusting screws L18. Place the new plate as always. It is better not to close the first part of the clamp to the end. It is preferable to close the second immediately and then go back to the first for the final closure. In this way the plate does not warp. After that, turn the special toothed screw N67 (red) of the mechanism, to the right, for fast shifting of the rear clamp.

ATTENTION: This special screw N67 (red) must be turned up to the end, until you feel that it has reached the end of its cycle.

SPECIAL ATTENTION MUST BE TAKEN IF IT IS DIFFICULT TO BE TURNED. IT IS NECESSARY TO UNSCREW LIGHTLY THE 4 OPERATING SCREWS L12 OF THE CLAMP FOR THE STRETCHING OF THE PLATE. THIS SPECIAL SCREW IS NOT FOR COMPLETELY STRETCHING THE PLATE. IT IS JUST FOR MOVING THE CLAMP IMMEDIATELY, WITHOUT USING MUCH FORCE. The function of the special screw N67 (red) has been completed. As mentioned above do not use this special screw for the final stretching of the plate or for the different adjustments on the clamps. Tighten the 4 operating rear clamp’s screws L12 completely and do the same at the front clamp’s operating screws L14. From now on, the operation of the clamps for the final coincidence of the colors or for the corrections, is, as it was with the old clamps.